Bikepacking on Catalina Island is the perfect blend of challenge and paradise. This casual yet detailed guide will walk you through a multi-day adventure across the island – from catching the ferry to setting up camp under starry skies. We’ll cover everything from logistics (ferries, permits, and provisions) to the best routes, camp spots, and pro tips so you can plan and enjoy a successful Catalina bikepacking trip. Grab your helmet – let’s ride!
Getting There & Preparation
Ferry to Avalon: Start by booking a ferry to Avalon, Catalina’s main town. The Catalina Express ferry operates from multiple Southern California ports – San Pedro, Long Beach, and Dana Point – and another ferry runs from Newport Beach. The ride is about an hour long, delivering you from the bustling mainland to island bliss. Be sure to reserve in advance (especially on summer weekends) and choose a departure that fits your schedule. Morning ferries are popular, but any time will do – just aim to arrive in Avalon with daylight to start your ride.
Note - Make sure to add your bike to your itinerary when booking (there’s an added fee).
Catalina Conservancy Permit: Before hitting the trails, note that Catalina’s interior is protected. To bike beyond Avalon’s city limits, you must have a Catalina Island Conservancy membership (Freewheeler Bike Pass). Purchase this online ahead of time or at the Conservancy’s Trailhead Visitor Center in Avalon. It’s about $35 for a year and comes with perks like 50% off camping fees. Bring proof of membership or pick up your bike pass in Avalon so you’re legal to ride the backcountry roads.
Camp Reservations: Catalina has designated campgrounds you’ll need to reserve in advance (way in advance - especially for weekends). On this route, plan for Little Harbor Campground (Night 1) and Two Harbors Campground or Parson’s Landing (Night 2 and/or 3). Reservations can be made through the Catalina Island Conservancy or Island Company websites. If you’re adventurous and want a remote experience, book Parson’s Landing (more on that later); otherwise Two Harbors Campground offers more facilities. Either way, securing your campsites ahead of time is crucial because walk-ins are not common.
Note - When you reserve your campsite, you can make it for one person, then add-on additional members later (as they sign-on for your adventure). Also, the camping fee is per person not per campsite (ouch!).
Packing & Provisions: Bring your usual bikepacking gear (tent, sleeping bag, water filter, etc.) and prepare for variable weather. Catalina can be hot and sunny by day and cool at night by the coast. Pack plenty of water (at least 2-3 liters capacity) and sun protection – there’s very little shade on the trails. You can lighten your food load knowing you’ll find markets or cafes in Avalon and Two Harbors to resupply.
Pro tip: Avalon has a full grocery store (Vons on Sumner Ave), so you can pick up last-minute snacks, fresh food, or stove fuel right when you arrive. Stock up here with any essentials you didn’t carry over on the ferry.
Take note: throughout this ride you will notice a trade-off. You can buy your provisions along the way and pay the increased cost involved, or you can bring these items with you (even from the mainland) and save some money. The trade-off is the weight you will be carrying. In my earlier days of doing this adventure, I carried more stuff along the way and paid the price of added effort. You can bring camping food (freeze dried) and a stove and fuel, or you can dine along the way (except at Little Harbor or Parson’s). Personally, I have come to enjoy the ride more when I am carrying less weight, but the choice is yours.
Day 1: Avalon to Little Harbor
Welcome to Avalon! As you disembark in this quaint Mediterranean-style town, take a moment to soak in the island vibes. Day 1 is all about crossing from Avalon on the east end to Little Harbor on the west side. It’s a challenging ride with big climbs, but also big views and a beachfront campsite reward.
Morning in Avalon: Once off the ferry, make any final preparations. Fill up your water, grab any last provisions from Vons, and ensure your bike is in good shape. Avalon is your last chance for amenities like groceries or a proper restaurant meal until Two Harbors, so double-check you have everything. When you’re ready, start riding uphill out of Avalon toward the island’s interior. The initial climb out of Avalon is a wake-up call for the legs – take it slow and steady. You’ll transition from paved streets to dirt roads as you leave town and enter Catalina’s wildlands.
Ride to the Airport in the Sky: Your first destination along the route is the Airport in the Sky, Catalina’s small mountaintop airport. It’s roughly 10 miles from Avalon, with about 1,600 feet of climbing. The road is winding and mostly uphill, but the views keep getting better as you ascend. Don’t be surprised if you spot a bison or two grazing on distant hillsides – this is their territory! By late morning or midday, you’ll reach the Airport in the Sky, which sits at ~1,600 feet elevation.
Lunch at the Airport Café: The Airport has a charming little café that makes for a perfect lunch stop. Take a break from pedaling and refuel here. The local favorite is the “buffalo burger,” a bison burger famed on Catalina (and don’t worry – the meat is sourced from the mainland, not the island’s wild herd). Pair it with a cold drink and enjoy the rustic atmosphere. The café often has outdoor picnic tables and breathtaking vistas of the interior. You’ve earned this lunch!
After you’ve rested, topped off your water bottles, and maybe grabbed a souvenir at the little gift shop, it’s time to hit the road again. From the Airport, you’ll continue westward. The hardest climbing of Day 1 is mostly behind you now, and you’ll enjoy a fantastic descent toward the coast.
Afternoon Ride to Little Harbor: Leaving the Airport, the road eventually leads downhill with some exhilarating stretches. The scenery transitions from inland chaparral to coastal panoramas. You’ll pass through sweeping valleys and catch glimpses of the Pacific on the horizon. Keep your camera handy – you’re likely to see the ocean from high up, and on a clear day you might spot San Clemente Island or even the mainland faintly. As you approach Little Harbor, the road will descend all the way to sea level. Little Harbor is on Catalina’s “back side” (the less visited Pacific side) and is renowned for its beauty. You might arrive by mid to late afternoon, depending on your pace and how long you lingered at lunch.
Arriving at Little Harbor: Little Harbor is a gorgeous twin-cove area with a sandy beach and primitive campground. It often ranks among the most beautiful campgrounds in the US – and you’ll see why. Nestled between rocky outcrops and rolling hills, the turquoise cove and white sand make an idyllic setting for the night. The campground has picnic tables, pit toilets, and even fresh water spigots (so you can refill water here - although you may not enjoy the taste). Pick out your reserved campsite (some are oceanfront!) and set up your tent.
Little Harbor’s turquoise cove is a rewarding sight after your first day’s ride. This secluded beach campground on Catalina’s west side lets you fall asleep to the sound of the waves.
Once camp is pitched, kick back and enjoy the late afternoon. Go for a swim or just wade into the cool ocean – you’ve been sweating on those climbs and a dip feels amazing. If you packed snorkel gear, Little Harbor is a great spot to use it; the clear waters often have garibaldi fish and kelp forests to explore. Alternatively, lace up your hiking shoes and take a short walk up the nearby hills for a panoramic sunset view. There are a few trails above the campground that offer stunning overlooks of the coves. As evening falls, cook up dinner (or enjoy that hoagie you grabbed from Avalon), and maybe make a small campfire if regulations allow. With minimal development around, the stars will come out in force. Enjoy a peaceful night by the beach – tomorrow’s ride will be another big one.
Day 2: Little Harbor to Two Harbors
Today you’ll traverse the middle section of the island, ending in the village of Two Harbors. It’s a day of one big climb and then a well-earned afternoon of relaxation. Plan to start early from Little Harbor to beat the heat on the climb out.
Early Pack-Up: Wake up with the sunrise (or as early as you can manage). Catalina’s sun can be intense by mid-day, and you have a hefty uphill ahead. Make a quick breakfast, break camp, and be sure to leave no trace. Double-check that you have enough water – fill up at Little Harbor’s water station before departing. It’s wise to have 2+ liters, as the climb is exposed and there’s no water until Two Harbors or the airport. Once you’re packed, hit the trail while the air is still cool.
The Big Climb to Two Harbors: From Little Harbor, the road (part of the Trans-Catalina Trail route) winds up the ridgeline towards the island’s spine. You’ll be gaining roughly 1,500 feet or more. The grade starts moderately but includes some steep stretches; settle into granny gear and a steady rhythm. This ascent can take anywhere from about 45 minutes (for very fit riders) to a few hours if you take breaks or hike-a-bike sections. Don’t be ashamed to walk if needed – the views are a fine excuse to pause. As you climb, keep looking back; the sight of Little Harbor and the ocean getting smaller behind you is incredible. Morning light on the hills and ocean is often gorgeous, and you may even catch a glimpse of bison grazing or an eagle soaring if you’re lucky.
There is little to no shade on this uphill, so your early start is paying off. Take short water breaks as needed, and watch for the “Two Harbors” signs or road markers directing you. Eventually, you’ll crest the ridge. Catch your breath and take in the isthmus view – the narrow strip of land that is Two Harbors often comes into view as you near the top. This is a magical sight: you can see the ocean on both sides of the island at once! From here, you know it’s mostly downhill into Two Harbors.
Descending into Two Harbors: The descent is fun and fairly fast, on a dirt road with some loose gravel – control your speed and enjoy the wind in your face. You’ll drop down toward the little settlement of Two Harbors, which sits at sea level on the isthmus. Congrats, you’ve biked from one side of Catalina to the other! Before rolling all the way into town, here’s a pro tip: if you have a campsite at Two Harbors Campground, make a detour to drop your gear at camp first. The campground is located on a hill just outside the village (above Isthmus Cove). It’s a short detour to head there, find your site, and offload heavy bags or set up your tent. This way, your bike is lighter when you cruise into town for lunch and you won’t have to lug gear around. The detour is worth it to free your back (or bike) from the weight while you explore the village.
Whether you stop at camp first or go straight in, roll into Two Harbors by late morning. You’ll find a very different vibe from Avalon – Two Harbors is tiny and rustic, with just a handful of buildings. There’s a singular paved road, a dock, and not much else – which is part of its charm.
Welcome to Two Harbors: This laid-back village is perched between Isthmus Cove (the side where the ferry dock and main beach are) and Catalina Harbor (a natural harbor on the opposite side of the isthmus). Boaters love this place, and you’ll see many yachts moored in the bays. Here’s what you need to know and can do in Two Harbors:
- Resupply at the General Store: Two Harbors has a surprisingly well-stocked little general store. You can grab snacks, groceries, even a bag of ice or fresh fruit. Island prices apply (nothing is really cheap), but it’s great for restocking your food supply or picking up a cold Gatorade. If you plan to cook at camp, you can buy items here. (Don’t expect it to save you much money versus the restaurant, but it offers more variety and healthy options if you crave them. For instance, you could pick up fresh veggies or sandwich ingredients for a picnic lunch.)
- Restaurants & Cafe: There’s a casual outdoor cafe (often serving burgers, sandwiches, etc.) and the Harbor Reef Restaurant/Bar which is the main eatery in town. Treat yourself to a hearty lunch – you’ve earned it after that climb. Fish tacos, burgers, or even just an ice cream from the cafe window can be delightful. If it’s a hot day, consider trying the local signature drink: a “Buffalo Milk” cocktail. Despite the quirky name, it’s actually a delicious concoction of vodka, coffee liqueur and banana liqueur (no actual milk from buffalo involved!). It’s a Two Harbors tradition for many.
- Relaxation: After lunch, the afternoon is yours. Two Harbors offers mellow activities. You can rent kayaks or stand-up paddleboards to enjoy the clear waters of Isthmus Cove, or just take a refreshing swim off the swim beach. If your legs need a break from biking, you might hike up to the overlook above the town for a sweeping view of the Pacific on both sides. Or simply laze on the beach – the pace here encourages doing nothing guilt-free.
- Exploring by Bike: If you still have energy to ride, you can do a short out-and-back pedal along the coast. A dirt road heads northwest from Two Harbors toward Parson’s Landing and other coves. You can ride a few miles out to get amazing coastal views. Just remember you’ll have to ride back. (This is actually the way to Parson’s Landing campground if you plan to go there, see below.)
By mid-afternoon, you’ll likely be feeling the day’s exertion. Check in at the Visitor Kiosk if you need anything (if you are camping at Parson’s Landing, this is where you must pick up your pre-arranged water & firewood key – more on that in a moment). Then mosey to your campground to get set for night 2.
Camping at Two Harbors Campground means sleeping by the water, with the village’s lights twinkling across Isthmus Cove at night. It’s a comfortable spot to rest up before the big ride back.
Two Harbors Campground: If you’re camping here (instead of Parson’s), you’ll find a designated campsite with a picnic table, and access to facilities like cold showers and bathrooms. If you prefer a hot shower, Two Harbors has coin-operated hot showers – a blessing after two days of dusty riding! You can get change at the change machine in the laundry facility in town. Enjoy a hot shower and watch the evening arrive. Campground spots are on a bluff overlooking the harbor, and at night you can hear the waves lapping and see a sky full of stars. As darkness falls, you might wander back into town (it’s a 10-minute walk) to hang out at the Harbor Reef bar, or just chill at your tent. It’s a peaceful place, but also a social one – often you’ll meet other campers or boaters around.
Optional Side Trip – Parson’s Landing: Feeling extra adventurous? Instead of staying at Two Harbors campground, Parson’s Landing offers a remote camping experience 7 miles further down the coast. This is an optional add-on for Day 2 and is only recommended if you’re prepared for a more strenuous journey. Parson’s Landing is a secluded beach campground with no services except a porta-potty. If you choose to camp here, you’ll need to bike an additional 7 miles (each way) along the northwestern coast. The ride to Parson’s is stunning – arguably one of the most beautiful coastal rides on the island – but keep in mind you’ll do it as an out-and-back (you’ll have to ride back to Two Harbors in the morning).
If you go for Parson’s, be sure you arranged a locker with water and firewood when you reserved your site. Parson’s has no fresh water on-site, so the Conservancy lets you pre-purchase water jugs and wood, which they stash in a locked box at the campground. You pick up the key code at the Two Harbors Visitor Kiosk before heading out. It feels like a treasure hunt when you get to Parson’s and unlock your supplies! The beach at Parson’s Landing is absolutely gorgeous and very remote – you’ll likely have only a few other campers there, if any. Enjoy a campfire on the beach (since you have that firewood) and fall asleep to total solitude. (Note: If you do Parson’s, adjust the Day 3 plans – you’ll ride 7 miles from Parson’s back to Two Harbors in the morning, then continue the return to Avalon).
Whether you stay at Two Harbors or Parson’s Landing, celebrate the fact that you’ve made it to the island’s west end. You’ve essentially traversed Catalina! Tomorrow, you’ll complete the loop/return by heading back to Avalon. Get a good night’s rest because it’s another long haul in the morning.
Day 3 or 4: Return to Avalon
All great adventures must come to an end – but not before one more day of epic riding. On Day 3, you’ll make your way from Two Harbors back to Avalon in time to catch your ferry home. This leg will retrace much of your earlier path, with plenty of climbing and then a rewarding descent into Avalon. Start as early as possible to avoid the midday sun, especially since you’ll be tackling uphill sections first thing.
Dawn Departure: Rise with the sun if you can. It’s worth packing up at first light to get a cool start. If you’re at Two Harbors Campground, you can have a quick breakfast (finish up those groceries you bought, or grab a coffee from the general store when it opens). Say goodbye to the gentle sounds of the cove and hit the trail. You’ll begin by climbing out of Two Harbors the way you descended in – it’s a steady ascent back up the ridgeline. Fresh legs and the cool morning air will help. Before long, you’ll be high above Two Harbors with one last backward glance at the isthmus.
Route Options for the Return
After reaching the apex of your climb out of Two Harbors, you will blast down the other side back toward Little Harbor. Shortly after passing by Little Harbor you will be presented with a choice of two ways to get back to Avalon:
Back the Way You Came (Via the Airport): The most straightforward way is to essentially backtrack the route from Day 2: climb from Two Harbors up to the ridge, then continue east toward the Airport in the Sky. This involves a long, steady climb but nothing too technical – just pacing yourself uphill. The benefit of this route is familiarity (you know what to expect) and a chance to stop at the Airport in the Sky again. In fact, aiming to reach the Airport by late morning or lunchtime is a good plan. You can rest there, use the restroom, and even grab a snack or lunch at the café (round two of buffalo burgers, or a buffalo chili dog perhaps!). From the Airport, you’ll descend the same road you climbed on Day 1, all the way into Avalon.
The Coast/Middle Ranch Loop (Longer Option): For a change of scenery (and if you have extra time/energy), there is an alternate route looping around the island’s interior. Instead of turning toward the Airport, you would continue farther along the coast and then cut inland through Middle Ranch Canyon (also known as Middle Canyon or Little Harbor Road). This route eventually reconnects with the main road closer to Avalon. It offers some different views and passes areas like Emerald Bay and the interior Middle Ranch. Be warned though: this option adds more miles and more climbing, including a particularly steep section near the end of the canyon. Only choose this if you’re confident in your legs and have an ample time buffer. It can be rewarding for the experienced, but most riders will prefer the simpler Airport route.
Either way, the goal is to make it back to Avalon by early afternoon at the latest. If you left early, you should arrive around late morning or midday. As you crest the final hills and start descending into Avalon, give yourself a pat on the back – the hardest work is done! The descent into Avalon is a blast: you’ll drop all those feet you climbed, with ocean views guiding you back. Roll safely (keep an eye for tourist vehicles or bison on the road) and soon enough you’ll find yourself coasting back into Avalon’s streets, likely with a huge smile of accomplishment.
Afternoon in Avalon (Post-Ride): Depending on your ferry time, you might have a few hours to kill in Avalon before departing. Avalon is a pleasant place to relax after the trek, with plenty of options to enjoy your remaining time. Here are a few ideas:
- Shower and Freshen Up: You’ve been roughing it for a few days, and a shower will feel heavenly. Avalon offers public showers (coin-operated) at the Catalina Express terminal or at the campground in town (Hermit Gulch). Even better, head to Descanso Beach Club on the far end of Avalon; there are free outdoor cold-water showers by the beach that are cleaner and quite refreshing. Rinse off the dust and salt. At Descanso Beach Club you can also sit on the grass or grab a drink/snack from the bar while enjoying oceanfront views.
- Food and Drink: By now you might be craving something different – perhaps a fresh salad, a juicy pizza, or an ice cream. Avalon has numerous restaurants and cafes along Crescent Avenue (the main waterfront street). Treat yourself to a nice lunch or early dinner. You’ve burned a ton of calories! Also, don’t forget to hydrate well – maybe a fancy lemonade or just plenty of water. If you want one last island treat, the Avalon Grille or one of the casual taco stands could be calling your name.
- Souvenir or Stroll: Walk around Avalon’s charming shops if you want to bring back a souvenir. There are boutiques and souvenir shops aplenty. Or just take a stroll to the iconic Catalina Casino building (the round art-deco structure at the end of the harbor) for a photo op. You might also visit the Conservancy’s nature center (if you haven’t returned your bike pass, or just to learn more about the island’s wildlife).
Keep an eye on the time so you don’t miss your ferry. It’s generally wise to be at the ferry dock at least 30 minutes before departure.
Ferry Ride Home: As you board the ferry back to the mainland, find a comfy seat either on the open deck or inside. If you’re looking for a quieter, upgraded experience, consider upgrading to the Captain’s or Commodore’s Lounge on the Catalina Express. For an extra fee, you get a comfier seat in a less crowded section, with a complimentary drink and snack – a nice way to toast the end of your adventure (added bonus - you will board first, ahead of the crowd). The late afternoon ferry can be a beautiful ride, sometimes with the sun starting to dip and the island fading into the horizon behind you.
Final Tips for a Great Trip
- Timing Your Return Ferry: When booking your return ferry from Avalon, aim for early evening if possible. A noon ferry is risky – you might have to rush the morning ride to make it on time (and any delay could make you miss the boat). On the other hand, a too-late evening ferry could leave you with a lot of idle hours in Avalon. Something in the mid to late afternoon (around 3–5 PM) tends to be a safe bet, giving you enough buffer to finish your ride and enjoy Avalon a bit.
- Heat and Sun: Catalina’s interior has very little shade. Plan your big climbs for early morning to avoid the worst heat. Always carry sunscreen and a hat for when you’re off the bike. If traveling in summer, the mid-day sun can be brutal – use those hours for lunch or relaxing by the water rather than grinding uphill.
- Water and Snacks: Refill water whenever you can (Avalon, Airport, Little Harbor, Two Harbors). Carry some electrolytes if you’re sweating a lot. Snack often to keep energy up on those climbs – trail mix, energy bars, or even the famous Catalina dried buffalo jerky (sold in Avalon) are good options.
- Wildlife: Catalina is home to wild bison, foxes, and deer. Keep a respectful distance if you encounter animals. Bison in particular should not be approached – give them plenty of space on the trail. Secure your food at night at camp (use provided fox boxes or lockers where available) so critters don’t get into it.
- Enjoy the Journey: This trip is as much about the journey as the destination. Stop to appreciate the sweeping ocean views, snap photos, and chat with fellow adventurers. Catalina’s pace is relaxed – so even though you’re pedaling hard at times, remember to have fun out there!
With this guide in hand, you’re set for an unforgettable Catalina Island bikepacking experience. From the moment you ferry into Avalon to your final triumphant return, you’ll experience the island’s unique mix of soaring ridges, blue coves, friendly locals, and rewarding trails. Now get out there and make some memories on Catalina – happy bikepacking!